While in Paris, I visited one of the many art warehouses, the D’Orsay. It is a large storage facility that attracts a sizable crowd during the day. In the olden days, people didn’t simply take a photo of a pretty person or scene. Instead, some pecked away with a hammer at a large rock, sometimes as big as a house, until it resembled a person or whatever. Others smeared colored grease on large bedsheets (the flat ones, not the fitted ones) to get a likeness. Seems like an awful lot of effort.
When you go, be sure to buy a timed entry ticket well before your desired visit date. Otherwise, you will stand in a very long line and get cranky.
The D’Orsay. Note the face of the clock is glass. Go inside and you can look a time backward!The warehouse has a fine collection of picture frames, many highly ornamented like this one.This frame has a central feature…I suppose you could call is a rosette?Not all of the frames in the collection are pretentious. This one borders on the austere. Look closely and you will observe a casual approach to joinery, what with gaps, etc, in evidence.A final selection, this frame shows the more modern approach, using a textured mat. Note the evenly beveled edge and clean corners. Admirable workmanship!The warehouse also has a world class pedestal collection. Here’s a nicely carved one.There are some works in progress; this pedestal is just scrap found in the workshop.Management are to be congratulated for providing clear signage in English and other words.The steps are a monument to French industrial design. The thin strips not only assist the visually impaired, but also reduce the potential of falls. Brilliant!The central access corridor of the D’Orsay.
Sundays in Paris are chilly and very windy, there is also a chance of rain showers. It is not unreasonably inclement as long as you have proper clothing. The weather Mondays through Wednesdays improves a bit, although a jacket is still required in the early mornings and evenings. Keep these points in mind as you plan your trip here.
The French, at least those in Paris, are intuitive to the point of being psychic. When I speak French to them, they somehow divine that I’m an English speaker and switch immediately to accommodate me! Incroyable!
The Parisienne sidewalk cafe is neither myth nor exaggeration. One can hardly take a dozen steps without passing yet another cafe! By my observation, there are about 1,000 cafes for every grocery store; one does not eat at home in Paris.
It is safe to stroll through Paris. I suppose it must have some rough areas, like all major cities. But average tourists will not find themselves there. Never once did I feel the tug of intuition saying “Maybe I shouldn’t be here.”
Oporto, which is in Portugal, is the birthplace of port wine. Thanks, Oporto, for a refreshing beverage! To foster the growth of tourism, they have set aside a sizable portion of their waterfront and created a district modeled on the ancient medieval towns of Europe! Their efforts are richly rewarded with a delightful destination, complete with bumpy cobblestone streets (very narrow!) and steep staircases with each step of some random dimensions. Such a thing would never be allowed in the US, to the litigious nature of our society. Too bad.
The climate is similar to that of the California coast and the hills reminded me of San Francisco. Temps were mid-50’s at night and mid-70’s in the daytime. Very pleasant.
My room at the AirBnB. Authentic, historic rock walls, but very modern otherwise. Ideally located.The view from my courtyard patio. I had to share the patio with a few other guests, but they were not too obnoxious.I took the obligatory photo of the famous bridge across the Douro River. It has two decks, both accommodating foot traffic.Steep steps. Dubious materials. Sketchy engineering. They will certainly not last.I pressed this button and my vision improved! Apparently the promised change  is random. More than a few psychotherapists could use such a button.
Took a trip on the Underground to the British Museum. What an amazing place, packed to the brim with cultural artifacts stolen from every place on Earth! One could visit daily for a week and not get through it all.
Speaking of amazing, London’s transport systems is an engineering and sociological marvel in its own right. Fast, efficient and cheap. I developed a technique for navigating through the system:
Before descending into the system, use Google Maps to plan. Take a screen shot so you’ll have the plan when you lose cell coverage. On your way to the station endlessly repeat (to yourself, silently) the name of the line and platform you need to get to. For example, I say “Buckaloo” on the left foot, then “3” on the next left foot. Take the escalator down, down, down. Realize that you’ve forgotten the line & platform, consult the screen shot and follow the signs to the train. Foolproof!
The impressive central hub of the British Museum. Swarms of visitors mill about here, impeding the efficient flow of others.This big head was stolen from Egypt. The stone one, not the one with glasses.This is an example of ancient Egyptian writing. It was a student’s work. You can tell by the weak thesis statement and misspellings. Egyptians of the time not only wrote like this; they spoke in the same manner. “Eye chair rabbit zig-zag shovel bowl” Little wonder the civilization didn’t withstand the test of time!I had a great time wandering through the clock exhibit. Fascinating!Here’s a close-up of a marvelously complex timepiece.London grocery stores carry a bewildering array of odd foods. I hadn’t previously given much thought to ox tongues, but I would have thought them too big for these small cans.I had a nice snack in the neighborhood near my hotel. I think it may be a gayborhood, but its hard to tell with the Brits.Londoners are fond of mis-labeling places. Hammer House is not a house. Piccadilly Circus has no clowns or big tops. Trafalger Square is actually a dodecahedron. I’m on to their cruel hoaxes and cancelled a planned trip to the London “Zoo”This absurdly long escalator takes you to the depths of the Underground. An unavoidable consequence of burrowing this far into the Earth is that the nearby magma makes the system into one enormous sauna.
The Tower of London doesn’t tower physically nearly as much as it does historically. I suppose it towered over the huts surrounding it a few hundred years ago; modern towers overshadow it. However, it is still an amazing fortress. Viewing its moats, walls and built in firing positions makes apparent why it was attacked so few times. Did you know Anne Boleyn lost her head here? She did, thanks to Henry VIII. The usual punishment for treason was burning at the stake, but Henry, in his monarchical mercy, commuted her sentence to mere beheading.
The Tower of London. It only looks towering due to the skill of the photographer.If it were me designing a fortress, I wouldn’t put windows on the ground floor. Seems vulnerable. The winding switchbacks would have been sure to slow the charging enemies, however. Nice touch.This pretty chapel is still in use, and has been for centuries. The local priest, presumably Anglican, preaches here to no one every Sunday.Now this is a tower. The locals call it The Shard, although it has an official name. I spotted it from the Uber river boat.Statues of the great and near-great abound in London.Look at the soldier of the Horse Guard! My tour group had the great fortune to see a Changing of the Guard. I was disappointed to learn that no nappies (diapers) were involved.This little soldier was an impromptu addition to the changing of the guard. The little man had the whole outfit; he marched and saluted like the professional he will be someday. He charmed everyone, even the police armed with assault rifles.Nice view of the London Bridge, eh? Not! That’s the Tower Bridge, the London Bridge is in Arizona. Its place in London was taken by a ordinary bridge from anywhere.Waterloo Station is a major transit hub in London. It is a magnificent structure that houses the Underground and passenger railroads.This is a statue of an old lady whose inability to control her offspring led to World War I.
QM2 arrived right on schedule, early on the 28th. Since I (alone amongst the passengers) could handle my own luggage, I had leave to disembark as soon as the gangway was rigged. Taxis were lined up waiting; one whisked me to the train station. The train was standing by, I boarded and we were off through the green, green countryside.
Arrived at Waterloo Station, London, crossed the street to the Union Jack Club. The front desk said I could check in early, which was very fortunate. I hadn’t slept well the night before, a combination of pre-disembarkation jitters and the couple in the adjoining stateroom having an unhealthy amount of sex. So…I went immediately to bed.
I should mention that the Union Jack Club is a private club, membership limited to enlisted members of the UK military. I got to stay because I’m a member of the Marines Memorial Association in San Francisco…we have reciprocal privileges. It is not fancy, but its clean and nice, with its own bar and restaurant. It’s location is ideal for exploring London.
On my first 5-mile stroll through London, I visited Covent Gardens. There are no gardens at all! It’s a shopping mall. Interesting, though, and worth a visit. I lunched at the Punch and Judy, where the puppet concept was born.I visited the Transport Museum and was awe-struck by the number of people swarming the place. I could see that reviewing the historical development of public transit would interest wonky nerds, but I had no idea that all of the British are wonky nerds!Check out this traditional London black cab! Only vehicle in the world purpose-built as a cab! Here, the toddler is reviewing the finer points of design and construction with its parents. Mastery of these critical concepts is required for entry to kindergarten.Although not in the Transport Museum, this curious object was found on a nearby street. The explanatory signs were basically word salad, making no sense. “Operator calls” “Dial tone” “20p” Archeologists from Kings College London are puzzling it out.
Addendum to the New York post: Prior to my visit, I did not realize that New Yorkers are fond of dressing in antique clothing. Several, perhaps many, of the men walk the streets in old-fashioned “suits,” complete with colorful streamers tied around their necks! Just like in the olden days! I asked one if he was a docent illustrating New York of yesteryear; he became huffy and inarticulate. There are several antiquarian shops selling various articles of clothing from that era.
Brooklyn, NY, Â to Southampton, UK, on the Queen Mary 2 is what I imagine a magic carpet ride would be. Smooth, Serene, Leisurely. My stateroom was twice the size of my earlier crossing, five years ago. My long-time friends, Merrill & Gennaro, had a stateroom twice the size of mine! Even larger quarters are available. For a hefty price.
I lost two ping-pong tournaments here. Only one was my fault, as it was a singles tournament. The second was doubles and I blame my so-called “partner.” Met some nice teenagers, though, from Canada and SoCal. The SoCal kid and I liked to make fun of the British. Did you know they apologize for scoring points? They do. They also apologize for winning. Peculiar!One of the many lounges aboard QM2. Someone seems to have left a martini laying around.This is not an abstract sculpture. These fins are, in fact, actually spare propellor blades QM2 carries around, in case some get damaged by running aground. Not an inspiring vote of confidence in the captain.Pretty art pieces adorn the stairwells of QM2.
ennui [Fr. ennui, OF. enui, L. in odio] The feeling of mental weariness and dissatisfaction produced by a want of occupation , or by lack of interest in the present surroundings or employments.
Now I know why the French invented the word “ennui.” It is used to describe the barely bearable tedium of a 4-hour ground delay at SFO, waiting for a flight to Newark. Some scaredy-cat bigwig was frightened of commonplace thunderstorms and, so, we waited. None of the flights to neighboring airports were delayed, so I took it personally.
Alaska Airlines breakfast served as a mid-afternoon snack. Surprisingly hot and flavorful.
The traffic at the Newark Airport was hilariously chaotic. I now understand why auto makers still put horns in cars. It’s for the New Yorkers. They love honking horns almost as much as they love ignoring others honking their horns!
One good thing about arriving in the middle of the night, is the wide open road, once you get out of the airport. A brisk Lyft ride and I was in Manhattan, staying at the Yale Club, across the street from Grand Central Station.
The Yale Club common room. Portraits of famous alum adorn the walls (Presidents Taft, Clinton, Both Bushes). Sotomayor is relegated to the stairwell.Grand Central Station. New Yorkers are fond of train rides and take many of them. It’s a magical building; outside, no trains. Go inside, dozens of trains! Incredible!
New Yorkers. One wonders if they are aware of the enormity of their self-parody. Everyone is O! So Busy! Rushing around with their street faces on, unsmiling, frowning, perpetually irritated. Many of them (stupidly) wander the perilous, crowded streets with headphones or ear buds installed. Amazing!
Walgreens in NYC keeps practically everything behind locked plexiglass. Not just high value items, like in normal Walgreens. That means you have to ring for a clerk when you want something. They provide efficient and effective service in the traditional harsh and brusque manner. Also, only in NYC can the request “One shopping bag, please” be said as a soul-scorching insult.
I toured United Nations Headquarters; it looks just like all the pictures you’ve seen. I didn’t realize the extent of their art collection. My tour group was a mini-UN itself, comprising people from all over the world. The Secretary General walked by our group and bade us “Good morning!”
The Secretary General draws a breath so he can greet us.
One of many large tapestries, this one made in memory of the Chernobyl nuclear disaster.A close-up showing the detail of the tapestry.A display of the critical parts a of the UN Declaration of Human Rights.One of the panels from the display.
Journeyed back to the American Southwest, via San Luis Obispo and Palm Springs. I’ve mapped out dispersed, aka wild, camp sites to break the longer legs into shorter ones. I’m in no hurry, so why drive long hours when I can stop and stay in the comfort of my own mobile house?
Visited Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Yup, that’s a real place. Named after a radio show from days gone by. It used to be called Hot Springs. Throngs of celebrities converged on the town in the 1950’s annually, to host the radio show.The natural hot springs here have the highest mineral content of any water anywhere! I suppose that means it is hard water, but it sounds better the first way. I soaked in an excellent private pool and was restored to the radiant vitality of my youth.I camped here on the the bed of a used-to-be lake, called Elephant Butte (EL a FONT boo TAY) Lake. While there, I mounted an archeological expedition to identify significant artifacts from the past.
Xena, the Warrior Archeologist, assisted with my efforts. I was too busy with my scientific endeavors to take an actual photo, so I had MidJourney, the artificial intelligence artist, re-create the scene.Archeology is a very easy field, requiring little more than strolling across the terrain. My first discovery was this dinosaur toenail, embedded in the dry lake bed.Before positively identifying the object, I considered the only alternative: a doorway to an inter-dimensional portal. One of the privileges afforded me as a Master of Science is the freedom to test hypotheses without supervision. This I did, aided by a locally-procured wooden probe. Alas! Nothing but dirt under it. At least my first theory was proven correct: dinosaur toenail. I believe it is the first ever recovered.I also discovered this object of unknown origin. Speculating from the fine workmanship and exotic materials, it appears to be of extra-terrestrial origin. I sent the coordinates to the ET Liaison Office in Roswell, in case its owner can be contacted.I visited the Geronimo Museum, which has little to do with Geronimo, but much about the fine dresses women wore. This, of course, was in the days of gender inequality, when women got all of the niceties and men were required to wear drab clothing.Here’s a close up of the fine workmanship of these dresses. Having little else to do, pioneer women made fabulous clothes.This is an example of the type of chair the cow farmers would strap to unwitting horses. They used the thin strips of leather you see hanging from the front of the chair to coerce the horse into obedience.The Desert Southwest is a sporty place, so I engaged the locals in the manly art of bean bag tossing. I bested him, leaving him in a state of consternation.
I journeyed north to Oregon (rhymes with Octogon) to see the snow, which is a form of powdered water. The inhabitants are called The Oregon and share many characteristics with people. Their dwellings and attendant furnishings are built to a scale familiar to us and many of The Oregon have some facility with verbal communications. You would have no trouble getting along should you happen to visit.
The native clothing of The Oregon is based on tubes. They construct thin sheets from plant fibers, then fashion them into tubes. Two tubes for the lower extremities, two tubes for the upper and one tube for the torso. Many of The Oregon take great care to differentiate themselves and establish a social hierarchy by modifying their tube clothes in different ways and adorning themselves with shiny objects. Fascinating!
Dined at a roadside diner…the last opportunity before entering the territory of The Oregon.An interesting bar and cafe frequented by The Oregon. Did you notice the seating made from ski lift chairs? Creative!It is fashionable to provide outdoor seating, but these designers overlooked the fact that no one, not even The Oregon, want to sit around in the bitter cold. Consequently, these plazas are unused. Wasteful!Xena, the Warrior Princess, relaxes after a day walking through the ice and snow.Before a tragic log milling incident, Bend was a town. Now it is just a pit stop for tourists. Here is the epicenter of the horrific incident, involving this wrecked apparatus.It is one of the constant irritants of modern life that newts are confused with lizards. Is it really so hard to learn the correct names of animals?The cold arrives so quickly in Oregon that animals are quick frozen, like these two antlered cows. This increases their risk of predation.Pools for every taste! Hot tubs, warm pools and an ice bath! Who could want for more?
