While in Paris, I visited one of the many art warehouses, the D’Orsay. It is a large storage facility that attracts a sizable crowd during the day. In the olden days, people didn’t simply take a photo of a pretty person or scene. Instead, some pecked away with a hammer at a large rock, sometimes as big as a house, until it resembled a person or whatever. Others smeared colored grease on large bedsheets (the flat ones, not the fitted ones) to get a likeness. Seems like an awful lot of effort.
When you go, be sure to buy a timed entry ticket well before your desired visit date. Otherwise, you will stand in a very long line and get cranky.
The D’Orsay. Note the face of the clock is glass. Go inside and you can look a time backward!The warehouse has a fine collection of picture frames, many highly ornamented like this one.This frame has a central feature…I suppose you could call is a rosette?Not all of the frames in the collection are pretentious. This one borders on the austere. Look closely and you will observe a casual approach to joinery, what with gaps, etc, in evidence.A final selection, this frame shows the more modern approach, using a textured mat. Note the evenly beveled edge and clean corners. Admirable workmanship!The warehouse also has a world class pedestal collection. Here’s a nicely carved one.There are some works in progress; this pedestal is just scrap found in the workshop.Management are to be congratulated for providing clear signage in English and other words.The steps are a monument to French industrial design. The thin strips not only assist the visually impaired, but also reduce the potential of falls. Brilliant!The central access corridor of the D’Orsay.
Millicent Rogers was a fancy, highfalutin socialite and heir to a bunch of the Standard Oil fortune. She made the rounds at galas and parties in New York and graced the society pages. Twice married, then had an affair with Clark Gable. He broke up with her, she turned pouty and moved to Taos, New Mexico. While there, she became a huge patron of Native American artists, bought tons of their work and died.
Now her house is the Millicent Rogers Museum, where a portion of her collection is on display. Very interesting and beautiful work, some quite old.
This dainty ornament is an example of the waterfall design and is sprinkled with rainbow moonstones. They aren’t really moonstones, though.Imagine all of the work required to select these matched stones and arrange them with such meticulous care.Simple and elegant in front, fine filigree on the back.A pretty gold Greek Orthodox cross. One wonders how the Catholic imperialists allowed the artist to create such a thing.This little mirror has too much frame, not enough mirror.This black cross has gold inlays. Except…its not gold! They cleverly prepare wheat straw and corn husks, making it look like gold.Millicent was fond of old things. She used this pot, 2,000 years old, for her cosmetics.
On the recommendation of friends, I examined the tiny village of Marfa, Texas. This plucky place houses artists specializing in psychedelics and makers of soap. It is a great place, and, if you’re ever miles from nowhere, stop in.
The real gem is a place to stay, but I don’t have a word for it, They call themselves El Cosmico. You can camp there in your own tent, sleep in your vehicle (like I did), or rent a yurt or tipi or vintage travel trailer. They have wood-fired hot tubs! And an interesting gift shop with Wi-Fi. I met a Canadian there who had a husky named Sitka. Sitka and Zena, the Warrior Princess cat, had a great time staring at each other.
If that weren’t enough, there is an architectural treasure known as the Hotel Paisano. Beautiful 1930s architecture, built around a central courtyard with a fountain, artisanal details everywhere. It was designed by the nearly-great architect Henry Trost. Go and stay for a long weekend. It won’t quite be worth the trip, but you’ll have a fine story to tell upon your return to civilization.
The Hotel Paisano. James Dean stayed here, along with whats-her-face and the other guy, for the filming of Giant. I filched the pic from their web site.El Cosmico has vintage travel trailers with alluring eyes. I’m told the eyes keep watch while you sleep and ward off evil.If you wish, you can stay in a tipi and reflect on the genocide that has resulted in our current society. They didn’t have to worry about climate change, because they didn’t destroy their environment for the profit of a few. LOL, what a bunch of tree hugging weirdos.For some reason, Marfonians built an elaborate edifice to house their civil servants. Very pretty and imposing. By design.
